Domaine Méo-Camuzet - Clos Saint-Philibert, Hauts-Côtes-de-Nuits, Bourgogne, France (2022)

TASTING NOTES

From one of the masters of red Bourgogne wines, a rare opportunity to try their white! Fresh, zippy acidity cuts through a medium-bodied, energetic wine with layers of citrus fruit flavours and subtle salinity. 

These vines were planted in the early 90s and are now well-rooted and must dig deep to get their nutrients which yields more concentrated juice. Grapes are harvested when they are very ripe but with a strong natural acidity. In youth, it is the nose that is very captivating and developed, while the mouth remains "tight", but still marked by acidity. A few years of aging are recommended (3 to 5 years) so that the wine is completely balanced. 

Based on the mentorship of Henri Jayer, Méo-Camuzet typically destems all fruit and macerates on skins from 3-5 days at low temperatures to preserve fruit purity and a lighter style. Fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled concrete vats, lasting for 2-3 weeks and only small doses of sulphites are used.  

Méo-Camuzet is one of the most prestigious domaines in the Cote de Nuits, and the largest vineyard owner in Vosne-Romanée.

Étienne Camuzet (1867-1946) was a winegrower in Vosne-Romanée, mayor of the village and also an MP for Côte d'Or from 1903 to 1932. In 1920, he had the opportunity to purchase the Château du Clos de Vougeot with some of the vines, but instead of living there, he preferred to lodge his tenant farmers in it (because of his political activities, he no longer had time to look after his own vineyards). In November 1944, realizing the importance for Burgundy to have a centre to help promote its wine, Étienne Camuzet chose to pass the château on to the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. He held on to 3 hectares of prime Clos de Vougeot vineyards, located adjacent to the château, which Méo-Camuzet continues to tend.

Étienne's grand-nephew Jean Méo (himself a member of De Gaulle's cabinet) inherited the vineyards in 1959, and in 1981 the domaine became known as Méo-Camuzet. Méo began estate bottling in 1983 – from vineyard holdings that have been in the family as far back as 1902. Current owners, Jean-Nicolas Méo and his sisters Isabelle and Angeline, took over from their father in 1989. Jean-Nicolas was honoured to be mentored by the legendary Henri Jayer, who had been a long time tenant-farmer of the family's vineyards as well as winemaker for Méo-Camuzet with Jean Méo.

There are both Estate-Grown wines (Domaine Méo-Camuzet) and Negociant wines (Méo-Camuzet Freres et Soeurs) in the range, and Méo-Camuzet makes many wines, but very small quantities of each. Méo tends over 25 hectares, 18 of which are owned, to produce 30 cuvées each vintage. His is assisted in the cellar by Peer Reiss. Typically, Village wines see 30% new oak, 1er Cru 40-50%, and Grand Cru (as well as the iconic 1er Cru Cros Parantoux, planted by Jayer in the 1950s) are matured in 80-100% new oak, depending of course, on the vintage.